Featured Surfer: Prisca Amaru

Born and raised in Moorea (French Polynesia), 27-year-old Prisca Amaru is one of those people who stand out of the crowd… and not just because she rips in 3ft-7 ft waves: she’s straightforward, natural, and spontaneous. Believe me, if she has something to tell you, she will, whether you like it or not; she’s honest with herself and the people around her. If you ever come to French Polynesia and get to surf with her, there’s no doubt that you’ll hear her “sweet” voice in the line-up: either because she’ll be yelling at you for dropping on her, or just because she’ll be laughing out loud with her buddies: Prisca is one of those girls who doesn’t try to change in order to fit in… definitely one of the greatest qualities I know.

Prisca, when did you start surfing?

I started body boarding the reef with my cousins when I was 10. I come from a poor background and my parents couldn’t afford to buy me a surfboard. But when I turned 17, one of my uncles got me one. I was so stoked. I learned to surf with my friend Francesca, on the reef as well: we would hitchhike and then paddle 1 mile to get to the break, every weekend. We were so motivated, nothing could have stopped us form surfing.

Describe yourself in a few words

Wow, that’ s a tough one. I would say that I’m open-minded and interested in a lot of things: nature, economics, politics … I’m spontaneous but I also have this tendency to act impulsively (smile).

And would you describe yourself as a free surfer or as a fierce contestant?

Well, I did my first contest 6 years ago, just to see what it was like. Then I met my (now ex) boyfriend who was a judge and surf instructor. He trained me and pushed me to keep surfing in contests. He really managed to motivate me and I absolutely wanted to get in the local top 3. This I did in 2007, when I ended up 2^nd of the local championship.  Then I left the contest scene: I had reached my goal and honestly I was too old for that; young girls were showing up, all with a pretty good level. I had nothing left to prove, so I decided to focus more on free surfing… that’s who I really am. I compete with myself all the time, and that’s enough for me: I get too irritated when I surf against other people (smile).

What’s a typical day in your life when you’re not working?

Eat, surf, sleep, repeat (laughing out loud)

Talking about work, what’s your occupation?

I’m a masseuse; I’ve been doing this job for the last 10 years and I love it: I love to be around people and to make them feel good. Plus it allows me to relax… it’ my meditation. I learned all the techniques when I got hired in a local 4 star spa and I’m proud to say that I know a lot about my field. I’m now my own boss, with my own customer base, and plan to open my spa sometime in the future. Some of my clients are the pro surfers coming every year for the Billabong Pro. I usually work with well-known people who regularly get this kind of services from spas, so I’d better be good at what I do. These customers have definitely made my reputation.

I also used to be a TV host for the local media to cover the Billabong Pro, which takes place every year in Teahupo’o.

What surf trips have you been on so far?

I have been to California, Hawaii, the Tuamotu islands, and all the islands around Tahiti. My favorite place on Earth still is French Polynesia: it is beautiful and there are soooo many different surf spots. There’s no place like home (smile).

Tell me about your heaviest wipe out.

Nearly drowning in 10 ft Haapiti (a great left located in Moorea). My board was too small, I couldn’t take off and got caught inside by a big set. I stayed under water for a WHILE.

I also think about this wipe out in the Tuamotu Islands. I really ate it, falling at the end of the wave on a dry reef. Ouch.

One of Prisca's many wipeouts

What’s your biggest challenge right now?

I got published in a French Magazine and did a few photo shoots for a European surf brand a few years ago. Now I’m working towards finding a clothing sponsor and doing more photos. You know how expensive life is in Tahiti, so I can’t really afford to buy new clothes. So yeah, finding a sponsor is my challenge; it really isn’t easy.

When you go to bed, what do you dream about?

Dream #1: Traveling around the world with my backpack and my surfboards.
Dream #2: Opening my own spa

Would you consider yourself a happy person?

Yes, definitely (big smile)

And finally:

Typical breakfast: Bread, eggs, cheese & coffee
Favorite food: Tuna carpaccio & rice
Favorite board: 5’11, 18 1/8, 2 round tail, perfect for hollow waves
Wave you dream to surf: Lance’s right, Mentawais islands
Words to live by: Be yourself

To find our more information about Prisca’s massage, feel free to email her at priscaamaru@yahoo.fr (cell ph# : 00 689 70 38 14).

And for those of you who speak French, check out her website :  chez.mana.pf/guerin.dominique/MASSAGETERIMAORAPolynesie.1.html

-Vainui